Trailered

Bottom Work
	Originally, Abraxas had an un finished bottom. In other words, it was the original gelcoat. The bottom was free of blisters and had only a few minor scratches worth mentioning, but it was very thin from years of sanding. I was keeping the boat in the water year round, so a barrier coat seemed appropriate.
Interlux 2000/2001 two part epoxy was the choice for conditions at Great Salt Lake. This barrier coat is an excellent treatment for the prevention of blisters, and it can be sanded very smooth. There is not much use for ablative paints in Great Salt Lake; the only thing that grows is algae that can be wiped off without much difficulty. The preparation is straightforward: the very first step is a good wash with plenty of soap. Then the bottom must be wiped multiple times with a de-waxing/de-siliconizing solvent. This is vital even if the bottom has never been waxed. De-molding wax from the original construction of the boat can remain on the hull for years. A sanded bottom requires even more attention since the release agents and waxes are driven into the small scratched of the sanding. Multiple wipes in one directing with a cloth that is continually being refolded to a clean surface are a must. You can't get the surface too clean!
	After a couple of years, I decided to give a racing finish a try. I actually had to "rough up" the bottom to 220 to apply this VC-17m finish. It just rolls on extremely thin and flat. No sanding between or afterward. Its very fast. Its a fast application too. The finish dries in just minutes. You could do it in a day if you have a good bottom to start with.
If you notice the sail bag over the rudder, its there to prevent the rudder from overheating in the sun. Another 525 at the GSL left her rudder leaning against a fence, and it split wide open along the leading and trailing edges; and eighth of an inch or more. Keeping the rudder covered is a must; especially if its dark!

Bottom Work